When I began
collecting Croesus, reproductions soon became an issue of confusion and frustration.
Opinions on what to look for in reproductions
can vary among experts. Books contain vague descriptions and a few pictures, but few side-by-side comparisons. This makes it even more difficult for a beginner to
learn how to find authentic pieces. Some references say the tumbler,
toothpick and 4 piece table set have been reproduced. Cliff Gorham4 says the only
pieces reproduced are the tumblers, toothpick and covered butter...the creamer,
spooner and covered sugar have not.
This page is my attempt to provide a
current compilation of references and discussions about Croesus reproductions. I cite references
where appropriate.
I, by no means, claim to be an expert. Here I've only tried to pull together
information I have gathered and hope to stimulate more discussion and sharing of observations.
I consider this page an open forum, where anyone with an observation or opinion can post a comment.
I have
also included some discussion concerning use of a black light to test Croesus colored glass.
This information is somewhat inconclusive at this time, as we are still gathering
observations, but fun speculation none the less. We are hoping that all Croesus will
take on a murky glow under black light. So far, this appears to be the case. Any observations
or opinions you might have on this discussion are most welcome.
"Table of Some Common Differences"
I have created a comparison table listing known information.
Click Here to view table...
A repro Croesus butter dish in vaseline has recently been
released. Croesus was NEVER produced in vaseline by Riverside, Beaumont or McKee. This current reproduction is made
by Rosso (1998). The quality of the glass is very poor compared to authenic pieces and the finials are like those of older reproductions
(see picture below of comparision of finials). It is said there were only 246 of these vaseline reproductions made.
Quest for the Black Light Test for Croesus Reproductions
As part of my attempt to ferret out the truth about Croesus
reproductions, I began quizzing everyone I could collar about
whether or not their Croesus took on a "pea-soup green" glow under
black light. My best glass buddy, Karen McIntye, had told me that
she had observed that all Riverside green glass she had tested took on this ucky
glow, but other green glass did not. Now...we're not talking about
an eye-popping "vaseline" type glow. This glow can be seen only in
a completely dark room and is definitely there, but slight.
Well...the wheels began to turn and I thought, "Here's the true
test for genuine Croesus!!" But, of course it couldn't be that
easy. As it turns out...maybe not. The
jury is still out on this one.
All my Croesus glows...all my Riverside Empress, Ester,
and X-ray glass glows...but not the
later produced (1900) "Duchess" green. Why doesn't the Duchess
glow...it's yet another puzzle, because Croesus was produced from
1887-1919 (Gorham, personal communication). I don't know about some
of the other Riverside patterns in green, since I don't own all the
different patterns.
Other greens that have
been tested and do not glow are; Dugan-Maple leaf, U.S. Glass-Beaded
Grape, McKee-Hickman, Northwood-Intalio, U.S. Glass-Double Dahlia
with Lens, U.S. Glass-Colorado. A little surprise piece popped up
in green that does glow, and glows more intensely than Riverside.
It's Heisey-Fancy Loop. So far, the Fancy Loop green is the only
other green I have come across that glows. If you have observations
to the contrary, please let me know!
I've been asking anyone willing to take the time to talk to me
about using a black light to identify old glass. There appears to
be a general feeling in the antique world that if it glows, it's old.
Apparently, this is not true. I've included some information I have
received from some very kind folks about this subject to help dispel
this myth. It still doesn't disprove my hopes for identifying genuine
Croesus using a black light, however. All known reproductions will
have to be tested before we'll know for sure. I know that the clear repro
toothpick I have does not glow and a couple of green and amethyst
reproduction pieces tested by Tom and Neila Bredehoft do not glow.
Not definitive proof, but it's a start.
What others have to say...
An email from Tom Bredehoft, (www.in1era.com/SalemAntiques/)...
Thoughts on green glass that does or doesn't glow under black light.
Before the formula for Emerald green (chrome oxide) was developed,
you made green by mixing yellow and blue (canary/uranium) and
sapphire(copper sulfate), and of course it fluoresced. After the
chrome oxide development, they no longer needed uranium to make the
yellow, no more florescence. But, chemistry being what it was in
those days, perhaps we put just a little in to brighten the color
when we got a bad batch of chrome.
U. S. Glass started making chrome green in 1898. How does this
jibe with the introduction of patterns? Also in 1899, Riverside
joined National Glass, and there may have been an effort to reduce
costs by reducing quality of batch components. ...Tom
An email from Doug Babcock from Minnesota, www.eapg.com...
(The first part is an excerpt from a previous email to a customer)
The backlight test in and of itself is only one
indicator that a piece of glass might be older vaseline. Actually,
it is really only an indication that the glass contains certain
compounds, one of which is uranium salts. Unfortunately, uranium
salts are still being used in today's glass, so the blacklight test
is NOT an absolute indicator of age. Also, it was common for broken
glass, known as cullet, to be included in glass "batches" and if
even a small amount of "vaseline" glass was included in a batch of
green glass, the resulting items will usually glow under a blacklight.
But, the blacklight "myth" seems to persist in the marketplace and everyone selling on eBay seems to think this is a true indication of age. I think you'll find the more experienced collectors discounting the blacklight test altogether and instead will buy based upon pattern, size, true color, etc.
...
As you can see, I don't put much emphasis on blacklight testing
anymore, and try to rely on pattern details, color, feel, etc.
There was a time in the 1940's and 1950's when uranium salts were
not used much in glass, but that changed again in the 1970's and
contemporary glass produced by Mosser and others will glow like
the old stuff. I have seen other green EAPG glow and have some
depression glass and some art glass pieces in a cased
butterscotch/white that glow as well as custard and vaseline glass.
So I've kind of come to the conclusion that the best thing the black
light is for is to tell me when I need to dust the shelves
(just kidding...). ...Doug
PLEASE...PLEASE, test your greens, Riversides, Croesus and Croesus
reproductions and add your observations to the discussion list below!! Let's see if we can work this issue out once and for all. THANK YOU!!
